Mountain Roads and Mortality

I hope that the hardest of my travel in India is behind me.  The road from Jammu to Srinigar was crazy.  The road from Srinigar to Leh was worse and the road from Leh to Manali was washed out due to rain and early snow.  It was the most insane.

The scenery was fantastic.  We travelled through 5000m high passes, around snow covered mountains (which is really becoming a little cliche on this blog huh?  A change of scenery is coming soon I promise.)  We passed frozen rivers and clung to the edge of ridiculous curved highways.

These roads are called highways, but for huge portions, they’re just dirt.  Our driver took a 10 km detour across a big field at one point because the upcoming road was so bad.  He was better off driving in the plains.  It was not uncommon to whip around a curve, blaring the horn and see a huge truck bearing down on us.  At times, we had to reverse back to find a spot that was wide enough to pull to the side and let oncoming traffic pass.
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Buddhist Leh and Why Hippies Annoy Me

Kashmir is actually separated into several regions.  In the north, the Kashmir Valley makes up the western section, is predominantly Muslim, and is covered in forest.  The eastern section is called Ladakh, is mostly Buddhist and is a desert mountain region.  The city of Kargil, where India and Pakistan fought a war in 1999 separates the two.  Kargil is not a terribly lovely place. In fact, as a Polish tourist told me “It’s really one of the shitholes of the world.”  But the drive from Srinigar in Kashmir to Leh in Ladakh is long, and most tourists split it up by spending the night in Kargil.

The Ladakh side of Kargil is very popular for trekking.  It’s dotted with tiny villages, most of which are based around a Buddhist gompa (aka monastery) and these gompas are open to tourists.  Other than this, I was really surprised how similar it seemed to the American southwest.  The reds and yellows of the hills and their shapes made me think that if Joseph Smith had been followed by Tibetan buddhists instead of Mormons, this is exactly what Utah would look like.

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Kashmiri Mountains Continued

Please read the previous post if you haven’t.  This is a continuation of that post:

Anyway, at the end of the fourth day, we got to camp and as we were setting up, the Army told us we couldn’t camp there and we had to hike another click and about 300m up.  I was done.  I used all my willpower to get to the first camp.  I couldn’t handle the second camp.  On my way up that last kilometer I stopped and puked up all the water I’d drank, then once I made it to the tent, I lay in there and shivered for about an hour, even though I wasn’t cold.  On the plus side, I think I lost fifteen pounds or so from the whole hike!  Walk at 4000 meters until you puke, kids.  That’s my weight loss strategy.

The fifth day, we hung out at camp and recovered.  It ended up raining most of the day anyway, so it was good we stayed put.  We’d met up with a group of three French Trekkers from Mirabel in the French Alps and were moving along with them. Rochelle, Lucianne and Benjamin were their names.  They were very friendly, possibly because they chain smoked pot every time we stopped.  We had some good conversations despite a bit of a communication barrier.

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Kashmiri Mountains: Beauty and Discomfort

  The mountains of Kashmir must be the most beautiful in the world.  They are covered in forest to the tree line, grasses and greenery beyond.  Shepherds herd huge flocks of sheep and cattle through the hilly parts and gypsy huts dot the many rivers and lakes. The closest mountains I could compare them to are the Swiss Alps in summer, but, in my experience, the alps lack the drama and intensity of some of the Kashmiri peaks, as well as the height.  I just came down from an eight day hike in the mountains and we spent most of it at 4000 meters, hiking up to 4800 meters to pass between peaks easily topping 5000 with views of others that must have been higher.

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Srinagar

Kashmiris describe Kashmir as Paradise on Earth, but in 2000 Bill Clinton called it “the most dangerous place in the world.” After the partition of the Indian subcontinent along religious lines in 1947 at independence, Kashmir hesitated to join Pakistan despite its 77% Muslim population.  Pakistan invaded and Kashmir called on India for assistance. India ousted the Pakistanis on the condition that Kashmir join India.  This was the beginning of the conflict over Kashmir. In 1965, they fought another India-Pakistan war, largely in Kashmir.  Some Islamic extremists demanded that Kashmir join Pakistan and used it as a battleground for religious Jihad, committing acts of terrorism.  India’s hundreds of thousands of troops in the region resulted in violent crackdowns and misbehavior that alienated many Kashmiris.  So some Kashmiris demanded independence and began their own campaign of violence.

1998, both India and Pakistan detonated nuclear weapons and revealed their nuclear capabilities to the world, bringing their relationship to the brink of a very frightening cliff.  Then in 1999, they fought a small war in Kargil on the border of Kashmir.  That short war was resolved without nuclear holocaust (thankfully), but Kashmir continued to be the battlefield for a proxy war between the Indian Army and Pakistani-backed terrorists. Surprisingly though, the level of conflict in Kashmir has decreased, possibly due to the war in Afghanistan and the focus of militants and Pakistan on that side of the country.  It seemed safe to travel, so I made my way here.  I’ve been fascinated by the region for a long time and my recent re-reading of Salman Rushdie’s Shalimar the Clown made me believe the trip was worth it.
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Red Fort

One of the primary sites in Delhi is Red Fort.  Red Fort was built by the Mughal Emporor Shah Jahan, the same emperor who built the Taj Mahal for his wife.  Shah Jahan moved his court to Delhi and established it as the new capitol of an empire that covered the majority of India. The British East India Company acted as a vassal to this empire in Delhi until 1857.  At the center of the city built for Mughal dominance was Red Fort.  While the fort is a shell of its former glory, it’s still quite impressive.  Visit the photo gallery below to see the details.

After the fort, I met up with Shaubir, a good friend of my colleague Shanks and he took me by cycle rickshaw to a great restaurant in the center of the old city.  We discussed my trip to Kashmir and the hiking I wanted to do, which he has a lot of experience with.  Afterwards, we went and grabbed a tourist booking for a train to Jammu and met up with some of his friends in the cosmopolitan area south of Delhi.  The bar where we had drinks was outside a mall that could have been in any city in the world.  The calm and Western feel was quite a contrast to the chaos and dirt of old Delhi.  Shaubir was a great help to me in planning my trip and I’ll probably meet up with him again in Leh or Manali.

Already blogging badly!

I made it to Srinigar in Kashmir after a long, hectic journey by share jeep.  I’ll fill in some details on that soon but for now the internet is a little too slow to upload all my photos, etc. so this is just an update post to say that I’m here and I’m safe.  I’m headed out for an eight day hike in the Himalayas tomorrow so I’ll be out of commission for a while.

This is probably the hardest part of my trip and I decided to do it at the very beginning. So, I haven’t been able to get too much content here.  My phone doesn’t work because they don’t allow pre-paid SIM cards in the area for security reasons.  And the internet is pretty slow and much more expensive than in other parts of the country.

It’s still beautiful though and the things that they make:  Kashmiri carpets, pashmina shawls, Kashmiri boxes, etc. are all really incredible.  I’ll have some time to write in the hills, so I’ll fill in the missing entries on Red Fort in Delhi, the crazy trip through the mountains to Srinigar, the lakes and crafts of Kashmir and my hiking trip, hopefully when I get back.

Monsoon Madness

It had not rained at all since I arrived in Delhi which was surprising because it’s still monsoon season here.  Well, that certainly changed today.

Around 1 PM it started to rain and it was a thick heavy rain.  Puddles started to show up and muck everything up.  Around 3 PM what seemed like heavy rain became real monsoon heavy rain.  Watching it out a coffee shop window, my jaw was dropping at how hard it was coming down.  By about 4:30 it was over and I headed to the metro and back to the hotel.  On my walk back from the hotel, I saw some absolutely incredible stuff.  First, an entire side road was flooded and had turned an intersection of a main road into a lake. I had to do some creative walking to avoid swimming, the water was literally so deep and it was flowing hard.  The aftermath is pictured on the right, but that’s from an hour later and the water level had lowered dramatically.

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My bags are my children

One of them clings to my back while the other holds my hand as I walk.  My bags will be right with me for the next two years and I have to protect them.  But unlike kids, I get to choose them and control what they are filled up with.  Here’s what I chose and what I chose to put in them:

My bags are split in two to avoid a problem I had in Africa.  I had some expensive important stuff in my big backpack that I was unwilling to throw on a roof or leave out of my sight.  So this time I went with two medium sized bags, one for my camera, laptop, kindle and other valuables which I wear on my back and carry on my lap.  The other is a rolling bag which can transform into a backpack when needed.  My clothes and anything I can afford to lose and am unlikely to need quickly go in there.

Camera Backpack: Crumpler Customary Barge
Travel Backpack:    Osprey Sojourn 22

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Day One in Delhi – Humayun’s Tomb and India Gate

My first night in Delhi consisted of me arriving relatively late by plane and taking a long cab ride to a luxury hotel in the dark.  So I didn’t see much of anything.  The next day I woke up intent on exploring.  I chose Humayun’s Tomb as my first stop.  Wikipedia describes Humayun’s Tomb like this:

Humayun’s Tomb is a complex of buildings built as the Mughal Emperor Humayun’s tomb, commissioned by Humayun’s wife Hamida Banu Begum in 1562 CE.”

I asked the concierge if it was walkable and he said no, so, being a moron, I tried anyway.  I wanted to see Delhi and I always feel most connected to a place when I walk through it.  It was a decision I would come to regret when I arrived drenched in sweat and exhausted. Read more